Men’s tailoring can be a complex beast. Robust with niche details, historic features, and a wide range of craftsmanship, it can be a bit tricky to understand some suiting fundamentals when examining it as a whole.
All things considered, the suit is a relatively modern invention, only coming into something resembling its current look in the form of the “lounge suit” of the mid 19th century.
Since then, features have been added and removed, fabrics have gone in and out of popularity, and a variety of trends in terms of fit have fluctuated with each passing decade.
One component of a suit’s overall construction that has long swayed back and forth within the men’s sartorial zeitgeist is how structured, or unstructured, men’s tailoring can be.
With two ends of the spectrum, some styles tend to be popular within their respective regions (such as Italy and England, for example), and in other places, both structured and unstructured style can even remain simultaneously omnipresent.
Whether you consider yourself a newbie to the world of men’s tailoring, or a seasoned suit-wearer, you might be wondering how to define and distinguish between structured and unstructured suits.
Which look is better for you? What are the cultural and lifestyle implications of each? And how can you apply these definitions to your wardrobe and experiment?
Read on to find out more!
The Basics of Structured vs Unstructured Suits
First off, know this – in this topic, the terms “structured” and “unstructured” generally refer to the jacket rather than the pants. While a good pair of trousers can involve a high level of craftsmanship, jackets and sport coats are significantly more complex garments.
Pants can be made from heftier fabrics which drape along the leg in dynamic ways, leading to an overall more “structured” look, but overall, the term mostly applies to jackets.
Let’s go into further detail, shall we?
A properly made tailored jacket is usually comprised of multiple layers. On the more premium end, there are jackets made with half-canvas or full-canvas construction.
Cheaper suits tend to rely on full-fusible underlayers, which are essentially glued to the suit’s fabric shell. This doesn’t always result in a bad suit, mind you, but the traditional, properly tailored route usually involves some amount of canvas underlayering.
A full-canvas construction will naturally have a more defined shape and often a slight rigidity to it. Think of it like armor – it provides an aesthetically pleasing silhouette rather than just loosely conforming to the shape of your chest and overall build.
Generally speaking, the most obvious part of a jacket where you can identify structure or lack thereof is in the shoulder. A more structured shoulder will have more padding and artificial presence, typically resulting in a broader appearance.
In many cases, a more structured shoulder and generally more structured jacket leans a bit more formal than their less structured counterparts.
That’s not to say an unstructured jacket can’t be considered smart or formal. But most “power suits” and the like tend to have lots of shoulder padding and either a half-canvas or full-canvas construction.
Meanwhile, an unstructured shoulder is soft and relaxed, following the natural slope of your shoulders. This results in a more laid-back vibe and a more casual appearance in some circumstances.
Truly unstructured jackets don’t just have minimal to no padding in the shoulder – they’re also not canvassed. This means that the jacket’s chest can literally just consist of the outer shell, and will often be fully unlined if it’s intended for use in warmer climates.
In fact, a lot of classic Italian tailoring is well-known to mostly favor unstructured suits that leverage lightweight, breathable fabrics to deal with higher temperatures.
On the flipside, British tailoring on Savile Row tends to lean a lot more rigid and structured, and heavily relies on thicker wool fabrics.
However, unstructured suits and jackets aren’t strictly relegated to summer wear. A soft shoulder and loose construction can be done with any fabric, even ones typically associated with winter.
That said, some of the most common fabrics for unstructured suits are linen, cotton, and lightweight wools.
How to Tell if an Unstructured Jacket is Considered Casual
If you’re shopping ready-to-wear (or off-the-rack), then you might come across an unstructured suit or jacket that catches your eye, and find yourself drawn to its relaxed look. Only, you might be curious if it leans casual, or not.
After all, not every unstructured suit is meant for Sunday brunch outings. Plenty of them are more than suitable for important office meetings, weddings, and other dressy occasions.
The distinction can be found in the details.
While unstructured jackets naturally lean a bit more casual because they’re fundamentally more relaxed, there are a number of features that can make it read as a truly casual piece – one that’s easier to dress down in your day-to-day.
One very common detail is patched pockets on the jacket, which are a no-fail casual signifier. Lighter-toned buttons are another.
And of course, the fabric itself plays a major role. Linen, cotton, seersucker corduroy, and rougher wools like tweed are almost always considered more casual, and when combined with a soft shoulder and an uncanvassed body, make for an easy to wear garment that’s got zero fuss.
Where and When a Structured Suit Works Best
Obviously, this dichotomy comes down to personal preference, at the end of the day. But even if you prefer one type of suit to the other, there are instances where one may be seen as more appropriate, or perhaps at least as the more conventional option.
If you’ve got a slimmer build, sometimes a more padded shoulder can help widen your frame and create a bit more presence. Conversely, if you have wide shoulders, oftentimes a more relaxed slope on the jacket’s shoulder can soften your silhouette.
But for very formal occasions, structured suits tend to serve best. The intrinsic framing that a well-padded shoulder and heavier drape and cut of the jacket do wonders for buffing out one’s frame. It’s not necessarily there to make you look bigger than you are, rather to reinforce your existing features and create some drama.
Take a look at Jeremy Allen White’s headline-stealing ensemble during the 77th Primetime Emmys from earlier this year. His white dinner jacket doesn’t necessarily have a ton of padding in the shoulder, but it is fairly structured to accentuate his shoulder slope and create a sharp image. You can see the extension of his shoulder, finely tailored with precision.
Feel free to bend the rules as you experiment, but for starter advice, you can’t go wrong with leaning towards a structured suit for more purposeful wear, and unstructured tailoring for more casual affairs.
Your Vibe, Your Choice
You can’t really go wrong with either suiting style, if we’re being honest. Both are great for their own reasons! If you’re looking to exude an effortless, laid-back aura, unstructured might be the right choice for you.
If you’re trying to look your absolute shaprest, however, embrace the shoulder pads, baby! They’ll look great on you, we promise.
Whichever you prefer, we hope you’ve gained a more substantial understanding on the difference between structured and unstructured suits.
The verdict? One is hardly better than the other – it just comes down to a matter of personal taste!