Within the ever-changing landscape of menswear, certain trends are bound to come and go. Trucker jackets might be a hot staple one year, only to be replaced with something else by the next. But if there’s one trend that’s always been championed by a number of diehard menswear enthusiasts, it would be the high-rise trouser.
Calling high-rise pants a trend is admittedly a bit of a misnomer. The truth of the matter is, for the majority of the history of western fashion, high-waisted pants were more or less the norm. It’s only in recent decades that they’ve found themselves somewhat usurped, and it is only in recent years that they’ve begun to make a mainstream comeback.
But what exactly is the aesthetic purpose of high-rise pants? Why is it so often recommended by classic style authorities? And what exactly qualifies as “high-rise,” anyway?
Read on to find out how and why this one wardrobe change can upgrade practically every outfit you’ll ever rock.
Defining High-Rise Pants
For the uninitiated, the “rise” of a pair of pants or trousers is determined by how much material there is between the crotch seam and the waist. High-rise pants are intended to sit at what is generally the smallest part of your natural waist, with the seam resting at or above your belly button.
While this might seem a bit extreme at first, and can even take some getting used to, there are a number of aesthetical advantages to be gained.
The exact measurement of a rise differs in every pair of pants, and because everyone has a different build, what fits as a high rise pant to one individual might only be a mid-rise for another.
That said, the typical measurement range to be considered “high-rise” is above 10 inches. Again, that’s from the seam at the crotch, to the very top of the waist. And it should rest at or above one’s belly button – that way you know it qualifies.
Why High-Rise Pants Became Rarer
In the 2000s, two things took place within the fashion landscape that began to radically shift the general perception of how pants ought to fit a man.
The first was the popularization of lower-rise, slim and skinny jeans that flooded just about every retail store around.
The other influence was the advent of Thom Browne’s popular “shrunken fit” suits that would go on to affect how other suit manufacturers styled their own tailoring options.
These both placed a heavy emphasis on pants that fit slim and sat below the waist. There are those who claim that the reason that so many clothing companies jumped on this trend was because low-rise pants technically require less material – hence saving on costs.
But it’s equally true that consumers clearly wanted pants that fit like their favorite low-rise denim, and even sought this type of fit in their tailored garments, such as suit trousers.
Classic menswear communities spurned this change from day one, but it’s only in recent years that mainstream consumers have been picking up on the benefits of high-rise pants, and clothing companies are responding to this shift in attitude as well.
So, Why Wear High-Rise Pants?
In fashion lingo, people tend to throw around the term “proportions” a lot, but when it comes to the rise of a pair of pants, lending your physique and profile an upgrade is the name of the game.
High-rise pants give off the illusion of longer legs, as the eye is somewhat fooled by the continuation of fabric up past the navel. Yes, it makes one’s torso look a bit shorter, but with another layer, such as a sport coat, barn jacket, or cardigan, this “issue” is easily mitigated, if one were to even consider it an issue at all.
Classic high-rise pants tend to sit around your belly button, and for more tailoring-adjacent trousers, pleats are often a welcome addition, as they help provide an extra dose of visual interest to all that additional fabric.
The best high-rise pants are also usually fairly full-cut. They look best anywhere from a straight fit to a wide, loose fit, but slimmer options can occasionally work as well. They can either be cuffed or uncuffed, though some feel that the latter helps keep the elongating effect in full force.
High-rise jeans are another great way to make casual outfits look a heck of a lot better, for much of the same reasons as before. However, the higher positioning of the rear pockets on a pair of high-rise jeans also tends to make your own rear look much more flattering, too.
When it comes to suiting, high-rise pants play a big role in how seamless the overall fit will be.
One issue presented by the popular low-rise suit pants of the late 2000s and 2010s is how, combined with higher buttoning points on the jacket, the white of one’s shirt tends to peek out a bit, ruining what could otherwise be a sleek, clean-cut look.
High-rise suit pants completely remove this problem from the equation. Ideally, the waistline of your suit pants should more or less meet the buttoning point of the jacket, which in turn, should be a bit lower, creating a truly seamless effect and adding consistency to your profile.
Another benefit of high-rise pants is that they’re truly flattering on just about every body type.
Tall and thin? You’ll be able to accentuate that.
On the shorter side? The illusion of longer legs will serve you well.
But even if you’re on the heftier side, a pair of properly fitted high-rise, drapey trousers can provide a cleaner silhouette.
With low-rise pants, those with a bit of belly may often see it spilling over the all-too-low waistline of their pants or jeans. Bring it up a few inches, and widen the leg to accommodate this change, and one’s stomach is neatly lined up with the waist of their pants. It looks a lot more tidy, all things considered.
So, not only can a pair of high-waisted pants make you look taller, but they can create better outlines around your build, whether you’re slim, heavyset, tall, short, or average.
Where to Get High-Rise Pants
Thankfully, mainstream menswear is in a bit of a high-rise renaissance at the moment. A few years back, those in the high-waisted camp often had to shop vintage, custom, or from a select few ready to wear options available from lesser-known brands.
Now, tons of clothing companies are offering pants with a higher rise, and it seems the pendulum is swinging back in their favor. Whether it’ll last remains to be seen, as the average joe has about 20 years of low-rise propaganda to overcome, but for those in the know and those who care about the virtues of classic men’s style, it’s all there for the taking.
Here are a few pairs we recommended right off the bat.
1930s Ivy Style Double Pleated Chino Trousers by Bronson MFG
For your money, these old-school khakis are incredibly hard to beat. They have a very generous rise starting at over 13 inches, which increases by size.
They also sport a pair of classic forward-facing pleats for extra retro appeal, and have a wide, full-cut fit that offers a great silhouette. With two colors, including a cool-toned khaki and warmer-toned yellow, these are great entryway to high-rise pants on the affordable end.
Classic Double-Pleated Chino Pant by J.Crew
For a similar but perhaps slightly more contemporary fit, these pleated chinos from J.Crew are a great option with a mid-to-high rise that won’t feel too weird if you’re not used to it yet. Made from soft, 100% cotton, they’re easy to style and easy to wear, and not too pricey either, thankfully.
Corduroy High Rise Trousers by Spier and Mackay
Spier and Mackay are a reliable purveyor of quality classic menswear staples at a fair price, and their high-rise corduroys are no exception. These feature side tabs instead of traditional belt loops, for an extra clean and sophisticated look.
With a pair of classic single reverse pleats and a comfortably high rise, these are a great option for fall and winter style. Oh, and they come in tons of great colors.
Cowboy Cut Original Fit jeans by Wrangler
For an entry-level high-rise pair of jeans that won’t break the bank, Wranglers classic Cowboy Cuts are just the thing. With a slim thigh and subtle flared leg perfect for throwing over a pair of boots (or just sneakers), these have a slight western flare but still work on a fairly contemporary level. And don’t forget – they come up fairly high on the waist, just like ye olde cowboys. Win-win.
Classic Wide-Leg Trouser by Scott Fraser Collection
For a more premium high-rise pant, turn to Scott Fraser Collection for a plethora of high-end and customizable options. Their classic wide-leg trousers comes up high on the natural waist, and are available in tons of style, patterns, fabrics, and colors. They’re a bit pricey, but the fit is damn near unparalleled.